Just opened, we are surrounded by light fruit compote, the minerality of the gray slate soil and something yellow-fruity like mirabelle plum and apricot with a silky, shimmering texture. The terroir is very decisive here and gives the cabinet an incredible freshness, so that one could almost think that we have a dry Riesling in front of us.

The wondrous interplay of acidity and mild freshness balances this fine dry wine and gives it a salty finish. It borders on absurdity: on the palate, the Riesling indicates that it has an extract. But in contrast to most of the Kabinetts, which is carried by the sweetness, this wine is carried by the terroir, by the minerality. It’s like a race between saltiness and extract, which generate a long-lasting swallowing experience on the acid racecourse. It stays and stays and stays.

With a little air everything becomes even more concentrated, compact and closed, the wine has reached the next dimension. It still retains the minerality and spiciness of the terroir, but the tension from the acidity has become more intense and makes the drinking experience even more profound, you experience the acidity and the fruit through the minerality. This cuvée is clearly the epitome of joy.

André Macionga